When I first visited Parma in 1999, much of its historic centre was concealed behind high barricades of khaki plastic sheeting. When occupied by the Germans, the city had suffered high altitude bombing by the allies in 1944 aimed at the train station and marshalling yards. Large parts of the forbidding 16th century complex known as the Palazzo della Pilotta were destroyed, as were Marie-Louise’s residences in the city. Many more of the city’s monuments and churches were damaged.

It was only in the 1990s with the advent of wealth from Parma’s most successful conglomerates - dairy food giant Parmalat, glass manufacturers Bormioli and pasta-makers Barilla - and before the economic downturn ensuing from financial scandals, that the centre was enjoying a makeover. The dust covers and barricades have since been removed to reveal Parma’s extraordinary beauty. Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque palaces, cloisters and arcades blend together with Mussolinian wide marble pavements and tasteful 1950s office buildings. Despite the rape, desecration and bombardment of history’s conquerors, Parma still remains an urban paradise. Virtually everyone goes about their business in the city on a bicycle or a vespa. Gardens, painting, sculpture, marquetry, carvings and inlays are all exquisite. The pace is relaxed but efficient. 

There are excellent restaurants, Parma boasting that it is the gastronomic heart of Italy (seriously challenged by several other Italian cities). Anolini in brodo (meat filled pasta parcels in broth) and tortelli d’erbetta (beet spinach and ricotta in fine strips of pasta) are local specialities and particularly delicious. The torta fritta (fried bread) and local salamis, from Zibello, Felino or San Secondo are also very satisfying. Local wines are delicious too. 

Parma has become internationally renowned for its theatres, opera-house, jazz festival and major trade events, such as its biannual antiquarian fair, the largest in Europe. Shops, galleries, museums, banks, educational and welfare institutions are named after the famous of Parma. The household names of composer Giuseppe Verdi (after whom Parma’s airport is called), conductor Arturo Toscannini and Mannerist artists, Antonio di Correggio and his pupil Francescesco Mazzola, known as “il Parmigianino”, appear frequently. But one name dominates: Marie-Louise. Most homes have her portrait, the portrait of the Good Duchess, displayed in their homes, either alone or next to that of the Pope.